Replacing piano key tops

The ivory has been removed from these keys. Most of the tops are still white from the glue wafers originally used to attach the ivory
The ivory has been removed from these keys. Most of the tops are still white from the glue wafers originally used to attach the ivory
The cellulose wafer on the front of the keys is also removed, and will be replaced by the molded key tops.
The cellulose wafer on the front of the keys is also removed, and will be replaced by the molded key tops.
The old key fronts are removed (carefully) with a table saw.
The old key fronts are removed (carefully) with a table saw.
This process removes the old glue wafers, lowers the key level (to account for the new acrylic key tops being thicker than the original ivory) and provides a smooth surface for gluing on the new key tops.
This process removes the old glue wafers, lowers the key level (to account for the new acrylic key tops being thicker than the original ivory) and provides a smooth surface for gluing on the new key tops.
A picture of the machine (at rest) that removes the top surface of the keys
A picture of the machine (at rest) that removes the top surface of the keys
Here is what the keyboard looks like after all the keys have been planed down to reveal new wood.
Here is what the keyboard looks like after all the keys have been planed down to reveal new wood. At this point I do some extra sanding to make sure everything is square and level.
The new key tops are glued on using PVC-E glue. (Note, I will spread the glue over the entire surface with a brush before applying the new molded key top.)
The new key tops are glued on using PVC-E glue. (Note, I will spread the glue over the entire surface with a brush before applying the new molded key top.)
The inside corner of the key top has been "notched" back to match the wood and leave enough clearance for the sharp. The rest of the edge's overhang will be removed later, but getting the corner to be perfectly square is important.
The inside corner of the key top has been “notched” back to match the original shape of the key and leave enough clearance for the sharp. The rest of the overhang will be removed later, but getting the corner to be perfectly square is important.
This machine is used to remove the overhang that would would otherwise block where the sharps sit.
This machine is used to remove the overhang that would would otherwise block where the sharps sit.
There is a slight overhang at the bottom of the key front that will need to be removed.
There is a slight overhang at the bottom of the key front that will need to be removed.
Removing the overhang at the bottom of the key with a simple jig and an electric sander
Removing the overhang at the bottom of the key with a simple jig and an electric sander
The new key tops usually don't match the width of the original keys, and the excess will have to be (slowly) removed to avoid having it crash into adjacent keys or catching the fingers of the player.
The new key tops usually don’t match the width of the original keys, and the excess will have to be removed to avoid having it crash into adjacent keys or catching the fingers of the player. This is a long and slow process